Ligurian Mesciua

There is a basement restaurant in the middle of La Spezia – one of the larger towns of the Ligurian province- situated just south of the famed Cinque Terre region. The weather here is beautiful most of the time. But like most coastal locations, the fog and wind can change the mood instantly and turn damp and frigid. Fortunately, this hidden restaurant is known for serving hearty meals that warm cold bones.

My first visit to this restaurant was on a windy night that blew the wet sea air right through me. I felt like I was entering a secret nightclub rave as I made my way down the steep, narrow steps. The restaurant was packed with shady-looking fishermen, young hipsters and old locals – all coming together for one thing…the bone-warming food.

One particular soup caught my eye – a Ligurian bean soup called Mesciua. It is similar to something you would find in any Tuscan restaurant – a combination of beans in a thickened broth garnished with parmesan cheese shavings and extra virgin olive oil. I ordered it and looked forward to feeling that internal warmth that only a soup can deliver. It was, of course, incredibly delicious and satisfying as well as comforting. It was the perfect food to match that particular mood and atmosphere.

I’ve re-created the classic recipe and replaced the parmesan cheese with a good amount of my vegan parmesan shaker (see tips for instructions). You can make this soup with canned beans, but I believe the flavor will be much better if you take the time to cook the beans; the extra flavor will reward your extra effort.

Difficulty: simple
Yield: makes about 2 liters (2 quarts)